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Old 19-07-2005, 01:50 PM   #11
VSKH
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Is it true that the UV tube/bulb must be changed after 6 months if I leave it on 24 hours a day?

Is the UV tube/bulb very expensive and hard to find?
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Old 22-07-2005, 10:30 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by john2gs
Since most bros/sis need more info about UVC, I did some research. Hopefully the moderators will make this a sticky, in order for new members to learn more about UVC.

I paraphrase some of the stuff stated by Dr.Fostersmith:

UV bulb ===== maximum flow rate to control =====aquarium size
____________bacteria & algae == ==parasites
8w---------------120 gph------------n/a -------------under 75gal
15w--------------230 gph-----------75 gph -----------75 gal
18w--------------300 gph-----------100 gph ----------100 gal
25w--------------475 gph-----------150 gph ----------150 gal
30w--------------525 gph-----------175 gph ----------175 gal
40w--------------940 gph -----------300 gph----------300 gal
65w--------------1700 gph---------- 570 gph ---------570 gal
80w--------------1885 gph-----------625 gph ---------626 gal
120w-------------3200 gph-----------900 gph ---------900 gal
130w-------------3400 gph----------1140 gph --------1140 gal

*though manufacturers' recommendations will vary, this chart prodides a geral idea of the wattage you'll need- and the proper flow rates to adjust your pump to- when using a sterilizer for controlling bacteria/algae and for controlling parasites"

Parasites, algae, bacteria
factors that determine UV sterilizer choice

A properly sized UV sterilizer can rid your aquarium of free-floating algae, harmful bacteria, or certain parasites depending on the wattage and the flow rate through the unit. As a result, UV sterilizers minimize disease and keep your aquarium cleaner, clearer, and healthier.

before selecting a UV sterilizer, determine your primary objective - whether to help control free floating algae or to control parasites. By doing so, you will be able to select the proper unit to achieve your intended goal.

UV sterilizers work on the principle that special flourescent UV lamps at a peak wavelength of approximately 254 nanometers, can effectively irradiate microorganisms in aquarium water when exposed to this light. UV light in this wavelength alters the genetic material in the organism's nucleus, shortening its normal life cycle. However, the application and the efficiency of a unit are determined by flow rate as well as the wattage and age of bulb.

Flow Rate
Adjusting the flow rate through your UV sterilizer, that is, shortening the time organisms are exposed to the UV lamp (dwell time), alters its use. For example, controlling bacteria and free-floating algae can be accomplised w/ a relatively lower wattage unit as a higher flow rate. However, parasites are larger and more resistant to irradiation and require a longer dwell time to be affected by the UV light. A slower flow rate prolongs dwell time to expose parasites to an effective dose of UV light. Adjusting the output on your water pump controls the flow rate through your sterilizer. Use a ball valve or a tee to split the line to achieve the proper flow rate required to accomplish your objectives.

Wattage/bulb age
Higher wattage bulbs produce more UV light and are used to treat parasites or to treat free-floating algae or bacteria in a greater volume of water. However, lamp effectiveness declines w/ time, so your UV sterilizer will not produce the same results after months of use compared to when it was new. Therefore, you may have to increase the dwell time (by lowering the flow rate) to produce desired results. Replace the UV bulbs yearly, or per manufacturer's recommendation, in order to maintain UV effeciency. Also clean the quartz sleeve of the lamp regularly to remove organic buildup. A clean bulb allows better penetration of UV light and maximizes the efficiency of the unit

Can I operate a UV sterilizer while medicating my aquarium?
Since many medication are affected by UV light, sterilzers should be turned off during medication. For instance, UV light will "break" the bond of the chelating agent in chelated copper treatments and the aquarium can have a sudden, lethal concentration of ionic copper.

HTH

Very useful infor you hav there but there is still one question for my side that i am still wondering, that is will UV kill the good BBs in our bio filteration. ???
 
Old 30-07-2005, 12:10 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by VSKH
Bro John, Thanks for the good infor!

Do you think that the UVS should be turned off when using all types of medication or only certain types of medication?

I installed UVS in my 2 tanks sometime in Feb. this year, also added medication without knowing that certain medication used could be lethal. Guess those medication that I used were not lethal........but just wondering if the effectiveness of the medication was affected by my leaving the UVS on!
bro..I will turn off the UVC during medication...

many medications can be "denatured" by the UV light, so the sterilizer should be turned off when using medications, especially chelated copper treatments. The UV light will "break" the bond of the chelating agent, & the aquarium will have a sudden, lethal concentration of ionic copper.
 
Old 30-07-2005, 12:12 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by LIMMO
Very useful infor you hav there but there is still one question for my side that i am still wondering, that is will UV kill the good BBs in our bio filteration. ???


Most Beneficial Bacterias (98%) will be residing in your bio-media...so they will not be zapped.

Only those free floating BBs (less than 2%) in your tank..that passes thru the UVC..will be zapped.

so pls dont worry about....killing your BBs...if you turn your UVC 24/7

HTH
 
Old 30-07-2005, 12:19 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by VSKH
Is it true that the UV tube/bulb must be changed after 6 months if I leave it on 24 hours a day?

Is the UV tube/bulb very expensive and hard to find?
cheaper UV bulbs (jebo and etc) should be changed after 6 months of 24/7 usage...or else they will not be as effective as it should be.

the expensive uv bulbs (philips and etc).......will last longer. About 1 year. After that, it should also be replaced.

they should be available mostly at petshops...and not that expensive.
 
Old 30-07-2005, 12:47 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john2gs
bro..I will turn off the UVC during medication...

many medications can be "denatured" by the UV light, so the sterilizer should be turned off when using medications, especially chelated copper treatments. The UV light will "break" the bond of the chelating agent, & the aquarium will have a sudden, lethal concentration of ionic copper.
Thanks Bro John for your reply!

Just curious what "denatured" means! Is it made ineffective? Can share how this comes about?

I thought that the UV lights only kills bacteria and will not affect chemicals in the medication.......but my chemistry is really bad!
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Old 30-07-2005, 12:54 PM   #17
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Thanks Bro John for your reply!

Just curious what "denatured" means! Is it made ineffective? Can share how this comes about?

I thought that the UV lights only kills bacteria and will not affect chemicals in the medication.......but my chemistry is really bad!
hehehe bro.....my chemistry sucks too...

denaturing a substance......means that the properties (chemical bondings, structures and etc)...are messed up........thus it becomes different and the effectiveness disentigrates.

UV light has the capabilities to denature many chemical properties of living or non living things (such as medicine).
 
Old 08-08-2005, 01:00 PM   #18
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Bro 6 ft tank can reccommend how many watts to use? Say if i wanna kill parasites too? Thanks.
about 275 gallons.
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Old 10-08-2005, 02:25 PM   #19
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Oh ... ok ok... Thanks for the tip. Thinking to get 1 like yours.. jebo 13w. So far the performance ok rite? Really dont wanna go for the high end types which easily cost more then $200
actually bro..after extensive reading on these UV lights......w/ the tank size you have....and you also wana kill parasites......the jebo 13 w, unfortunately will not do the job.

those types that cost $200 and above..........with 40 watts or higher and w/ slower flow rate/pump (less than 100 gph)...will be the only solution to kill parasites.

remember that parasites are alot larger compared to bacterias and algae.......and they need to be exposed to the UVC longer...in order to be zapped..

alot of hobbyists uses a big pump w/ a very fast flow rate and connect it to their UVC..thinking that its good.............but it will not do them NOTHING, unfortunately.

HTH...
 
Old 10-08-2005, 03:16 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by john2gs
actually bro..after extensive reading on these UV lights......w/ the tank size you have....and you also wana kill parasites......the jebo 13 w, unfortunately will not do the job.

those types that cost $200 and above..........with 40 watts or higher and w/ slower flow rate/pump (less than 100 gph)...will be the only solution to kill parasites.

remember that parasites are alot larger compared to bacterias and algae.......and they need to be exposed to the UVC longer...in order to be zapped..

alot of hobbyists uses a big pump w/ a very fast flow rate and connect it to their UVC..thinking that its good.............but it will not do them NOTHING, unfortunately.

HTH...
Bro John, what flowrate is most effective then? Thanks.
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