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Old 03-03-2016, 10:37 PM   #41
DragonFireSG
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spidy View Post
almost missed out the zakki shower.
Am still trying to get Zac to reply my email but no luck.

Anyone know of very compact version of bakki shower from other vendor ?
Try SMSing him. There's some koi event going on now and he may be busy exhibiting. Zac's speciality is the pressurized distribution manifold which very evenly over the media. That's the main advantage his system has over regular drilled pipe.

You can build your own bakki. At it's simplest, it is a stack of media trays fed by a pipe drilled full of holes. Think if it as a very high flow, oversized version of an aquarium OHF. Max Koi has a huge unit doing bio for the show pond next to the office.

==

On pumps:

The Tsurumi 2.4 is a 400W pump vs the Tsurumi 2.15 which is a 150W pump. The 2.4 has higher head capacity and moves a lot more water. Perhaps quite a bit more than you need. According to the flow charts, the 2.15 gives about 1900gph at 10" head. The 2.4 gives 3900gph at 10" head.



Two small pumps will serve you better than one big one. Put a one way check valve after each pump, and have both feed your bead filter. Pumps can die unexpectedly - and in a smaller pond, pump failure can be very dangerous as the water pollutes very fast.

I speak from experience. My first pond of about 1200g had only one pump - a 2.15S. A failure overnight about 5 years into operation claimed 3 of my flock. Having to scramble for a replacement at 6am on a weekend is no fun.

btw. The one way valve prevents backward flow if one of the pumps is off or is dead. Many DIY folk forget to put in this very important piece of plumbing and then wonder why they aren't getting any flow the moment one pump is turned off

==

On flow:

4000 GPH turnover isn't actually a lot for 1000g based on more recent approaches to pond filtration. I do about 15000 GPH for my 3xxx gallon pond. That's sub 15m cycles. Bear in mind that you will be splitting the output between underwater returns and waterfall. Water returned via a waterfall does not generally cause a lot of subsurface turbulence. You will be able to control flow by using a quality ball valve before the bead filter.

One important note on flow - you need a certain amount of GPH (~3000, depending on whom you ask) to keep a single 4" bottom drain clear of debris. Insufficient flow will result in crap settling out in the drain.

==

On fish:

Ranchus don't generally mix too well with koi. The bigger, faster, stronger koi will get to the food first every time. Ranchus will get bullied.

Some also say ranchus do not do too well in water deeper than 3ft. I have no experience with ranchus so this is just hearsay until someone with more experience chimes in.
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Old 03-03-2016, 10:55 PM   #42
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My thoughts on chambers....

I'm not sure if settlement works for you depending on the GPH you will be running. These chambers need to be large for debris to settle out effectively - which is contrary to your requirements.

If you aggressively aerate the 1st chamber, you can put your oyster shells there. The bubbling air will keep your shells free of organic debris. The first chamber should overflow into the second. This will keep heavier mineral debris like sand and shell fragments in the first chamber, whilst passing through suspended organic debris.

The second chamber can contain your pumps and UV tube (if you get immersion model)
Both pumps should go to the Ultima. If they are flowing too much, you can use a bakk valve to reduce the flow. The output from the ultima should go to the shower and returns via a manifold. Valves will be used to adjust the output. The bakki shower should get only filtered water. It is not a good idea to pump dirty water into a bakki. Muck will build up very fast.
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Old 03-03-2016, 10:56 PM   #43
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*ball valve not bakk valve
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Old 23-05-2016, 10:48 AM   #44
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Don't want to disturb Thomas' thread so post here hehe.



1.5x1.5x1.0 main pond with 1.5x0.4x1.0 filter

Ultrasieve III depicted, directly interfaced with the dirty water chamber via a 110mm female-female unthreaded coupler buried in the cement separator.

There are no valves in this design for simplicity, save for maybe one on the pump outlet to control total flow rate. A standpipe is used to isolate the filter chamber from the rest of the pond for maintenance.
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Old 23-05-2016, 06:04 PM   #45
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Let me see how things look if you want to put in the Ultrasieve MIDI. I need to redraw that unit as I didn't make the stencil for it when I was building my own pond

Do note that the MIDI is much shorter. You will have to find a way to elevate it off the base.

Gotta look around for the 200micro screen. Maybe ask the folk in Koiphen if they can point you somewhere. The MIDI is less popular as it moves less water than its big brother so the parts are a bit harder to find online. 12000lph is still plenty for an semi indoor pond.
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Old 28-05-2016, 07:59 AM   #46
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Some quick thoughts before I forget to reply again

1. You probably don't need the 200 micron screen upgrade if you use an ultima. That was more a concern if you were feeding a shower directly. The bead filter will catch the rest of the stuff.

2. Be prepared to dose Baking Soda regularly. Bead filters are a KH hog and need plenty of carbonate content to do well.
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Old 28-05-2016, 08:34 AM   #47
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Updated with Ultrasieve MIDI. Note the slope under the sieve to prevent mulm buildup in a hard to access area.
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Old 24-09-2018, 06:24 PM   #48
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Hi there, do you use any UV sterilizer for your set up? what brand you are using?
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