Is yr 250watts MH really drawing 250watts?

Originally Posted by BarraCuda™

yes .. the efficiency of eballast is definitely better than iron core ballast. I'm currently awaiting some replies from singapore power

what type of reply u are waiting for ?
I remember last time that's a artical about how PUB charge us ... I remember it said that the power factor is not really taking into consideration. PUB only have rules for big power eater like factory/machine to have at least a power factor of 0.7++ (can't remember the figure) to maximise the usage.

Also, those power saver selling outside which claim saving of 30% in your PUB bills is not true . The saving is only 5%+- I think , CASE stop a company from misleading customer few months back.

[BarraCuda™]

Originally Posted by cwloo

what type of reply u are waiting for ?
I remember last time that's a artical about how PUB charge us ... I remember it said that the power factor is not really taking into consideration. PUB only have rules for big power eater like factory/machine to have at least a power factor of 0.7++ (can't remember the figure) to maximise the usage.

Also, those power saver selling outside which claim saving of 30% in your PUB bills is not true . The saving is only 5%+- I think , CASE stop a company from misleading customer few months back.

Yes .. indeed. ECC confirmed that the electrical charges are based on active power and not apparent power. So it might not be able to save you much $ afterall

But, correcting the powerfactor will reduce the reactive load (especially impt for poor quality extension/timers/old MCB). We are not charged for the reactive power but the reactive load is still on the circuit. That will heat up the circuit, higher voltage drop and may melt poor quality timers/extension.

For safety reasons, its still good to mantain a good powerfactor to ensure that the entire electrical system is not overloaded by reactive power.

Originally Posted by BarraCuda™

Yes .. indeed. ECC confirmed that the electrical charges are based on active power and not apparent power. So it might not be able to save you much $ afterall

But, correcting the powerfactor will reduce the reactive load (especially impt for poor quality extension/timers/old MCB). We are not charged for the reactive power but the reactive load is still on the circuit. That will heat up the circuit, higher voltage drop and may melt poor quality timers/extension.

For safety reasons, its still good to mantain a good powerfactor to ensure that the entire electrical system is not overloaded by reactive power.

oh...but not much ppl would bother about that esp in m'sia

in sg there is alot of accident with fire due to fish rearing during the luohan craze.
i think thats very important..

Dig out this thread again ... Anyone know how to measure active power ? Is there a meter around that can measure that ?

[BarraCuda™]

Originally Posted by cwloo

Dig out this thread again ... Anyone know how to measure active power ? Is there a meter around that can measure that ?

true RMS watt meter or watt-hour meter but they are expensive

Originally Posted by BarraCuda™

true RMS watt meter or watt-hour meter but they are expensive

er .. how expensive is that gonna be ... *may* have the budget from the company...

[BarraCuda™]

Originally Posted by cwloo

er .. how expensive is that gonna be ... *may* have the budget from the company...

digital meters should be in the hundreds range

Bro .. just one question.

If you use a 50 uF capacitor, will it further improve the power factor ?

[BarraCuda™]

Originally Posted by cwloo

Bro .. just one question.

If you use a 50 uF capacitor, will it further improve the power factor ?

Looking at the 25uF range, if you use >50uF, you are likely to overcorrect the powerfactor which again results in less efficiency.

If you are sway enough to hit the sweet inductance/capacitance resonance, it will cause it to have a impedence of 0 resulting in a huge surge of current flowing to yr lights. This will likely to cause explosion/fire/burnt out.