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Old 11-10-2006, 04:09 AM   #21
aqua doctor
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NICE WORK, thank you for sharing!

I was wondering if you keep your wavemaker on 24/7 or have it on occassionally?

You talked about timers not being fast enough to control the pump; some take a few seconds.

My question is; in your examples of use it looked to be a very fast wave/current at a very fast rate of repetition. can you slow down the rate to create more of a slow surge? could this be done with slower timers?
Or does the configuration of the box/pump dictate the rate of waves?

I also noticed at your overflow box to the sump, water surging in at different rates in conjunction to the "wave". Is there any concern here to look out for?
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Old 11-10-2006, 07:18 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sherman View Post
I see.
So how to setup the box?
Below water level ,right?
I see a float level switch.
Is this use to on the timer?
There is no float switch in use.
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Old 11-10-2006, 07:20 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aqua doctor View Post
NICE WORK, thank you for sharing!

I was wondering if you keep your wavemaker on 24/7 or have it on occassionally?

You talked about timers not being fast enough to control the pump; some take a few seconds.

My question is; in your examples of use it looked to be a very fast wave/current at a very fast rate of repetition. can you slow down the rate to create more of a slow surge? could this be done with slower timers?
Or does the configuration of the box/pump dictate the rate of waves?

I also noticed at your overflow box to the sump, water surging in at different rates in conjunction to the "wave". Is there any concern here to look out for?
Its turned on all the time. It works by timing the on/off cycle of the pump in sync with the wave resonance. Which normally range from 1-2secs in a typical aquarium.

The overflow box does affect the overall wave height but should not be a hinderance once its tuned correctly.
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Old 16-01-2007, 12:41 PM   #24
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I've been scouring the net for a little while now, looking for what may be a good DIY for the tunze wavebox. I was wondering if there was any update on this. Also, I am definitely diy savy. however this looks a little trickier then what i am used to. is there anyway that you could lay it out as to inform what goes where on the breadboard? I'd greatly appreciate it....

Many Thanx,
Sean
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Old 16-01-2007, 03:31 PM   #25
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A step by step as far as hooking up the board would be great. I've been pounding my head over at RC and you're the first to complete this... I am going to use the nanostream from Tunze the 6055, it is controllable but it'll also save quite a few bucks. and hopefully get the same effect all while having a smaller box.
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Old 16-01-2007, 08:45 PM   #26
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Look at the breadboard layout


The red lines represent that they are electrically connected together. Follow the circuit diagram and with some brain power, you should be able to figure out how to link them together!

I did not have a nanostream at that time so I didnt know if it would work. Just check the plug to see if its DIN5.
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Old 16-01-2007, 10:42 PM   #27
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Maybe once i have everything in front of me it'd make more sense. but i will be honest w/ you. very little of it does. Possible update? how's it working for you? if it still is? or have you taken it down?

Also, what would be your opinion of adding it to one of these?
http:/http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Chauve...QcmdZViewItem/
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Old 16-01-2007, 11:03 PM   #28
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Your link is not working.

I have been using it since April 05, infact the google video is dated at May 05.

I did replaced 1 of the capacitor once and its trouble free since then. No maintenance was done at all.
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Old 16-01-2007, 11:30 PM   #29
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http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Chauvet-SF-4...QQcmdZViewItem

try giving that a shot...
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Old 16-01-2007, 11:35 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqua Kulture View Post
What are you trying to do with a light chaser?
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