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Old 16-10-2014, 11:27 PM   #21
Flairtender
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For those bros doing direct top up , Do watch out on water temperature also especially on raining days . Too cold or hot , fishes will show clamp fins sign .

So water flow go slow on raining days .
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Old 16-10-2014, 11:32 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flairtender View Post
For those bros doing direct top up , Do watch out on water temperature also especially on raining days . Too cold or hot , fishes will show clamp fins sign .

So water flow go slow on raining days .

bro, thank you for the reminder.

yes, while topping-up, go slow and not rushing it through.

full aeration with the appropriate amount of water conditioner
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Old 17-10-2014, 01:35 AM   #23
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Yes and Thank You 1,2,3,4 , Honestly and Bingo !


Just to remind everyone , PH jump can be from 0.5 to 1.3 ish difference after WC from my experience and so far no casualty for my ex commando train fish .
( So sometimes it's not about PH only which most fish keepers like to ask or talk about . )

Water conditioner .... Ex or cheap does'nt mean good or bad . You must know how to calculate the formula/price and tank volume for WC . Seachem Prime though ex but in terms of economical is the best price water conditioner . ( Must go dig out very old thread ) Another thing cheap or branded conditioner got so called (very sensitive, dun want to name the brands or supplier here , got diluted/texture or colour difference if you take a good look . ( Maybe different batch or QA/QC quality ?
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Old 18-10-2014, 11:34 AM   #24
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Intricate & complex... there's quite a fair bit of fine details for my taking note of, great sharing
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Old 27-10-2014, 10:59 AM   #25
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I add seachem prime, then let water stand for a few minutes with aeration to let the gasses balance off with the atmosphere.
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Old 28-10-2014, 04:12 AM   #26
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I'm pretty sure those people that has drums or fgt to age their water has less deaths with fishes pertaining to WC as compare to those (me) that use water directly from tap. On a side note, I know of people that used drums to age their water and also add anti-chlorine (Baxter/Prime/etc) just to be on the super kiasu side, which is imo a good practice too. Also IMHO, different types of fishes react differently to WC, some are definitely more sensitive (i.e. tanganyikans altos) whilst some are super hardy (i.e. local bred scalares excluding altums). After some deaths and many WC, you will know which of your fishes are more sensitive and needed extra efforts when doing WC.
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Old 28-10-2014, 09:17 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Brichardi View Post
I'm pretty sure those people that has drums or fgt to age their water has less deaths with fishes pertaining to WC as compare to those (me) that use water directly from tap. On a side note, I know of people that used drums to age their water and also add anti-chlorine (Baxter/Prime/etc) just to be on the super kiasu side, which is imo a good practice too. Also IMHO, different types of fishes react differently to WC, some are definitely more sensitive (i.e. tanganyikans altos) whilst some are super hardy (i.e. local bred scalares excluding altums). After some deaths and many WC, you will know which of your fishes are more sensitive and needed extra efforts when doing WC.
Are you saying that if you age water no need anti chlorine? This is very dangerous statement in context of Singapore Tap Water.
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Old 28-10-2014, 09:36 AM   #28
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Adding anti chlorine is a must in the water.
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Old 28-10-2014, 07:19 PM   #29
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Quote:
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Are you saying that if you age water no need anti chlorine? This is very dangerous statement in context of Singapore Tap Water.
My bad...yes I'm pretty sure anti-chlorine is a must for Singapore water now. I'm still living in the 'past'.

Because chlorine is used to disinfect drinking water supplies for human consumption, tap water cannot be immediately used. In the past, it was possible to "condition" the water by simply letting the water stand for a day or two, which allows the chlorine to dissipate. However, chloramine became popular in water treatment because it stays longer in the water. Additives are available to remove chlorine or chloramine and suffice to make the water ready. Thus we used anti-chlorines (Baxter/Prime/Safe, etc).
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Old 02-11-2014, 01:55 AM   #30
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Using anti-chlorine is the faster way to get rid of chloramine and chlorine as many of us do not have the luxury of ageing water.
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