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16-10-2014, 11:27 PM | #21 |
Dragon
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,141
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For those bros doing direct top up , Do watch out on water temperature also especially on raining days . Too cold or hot , fishes will show clamp fins sign .
So water flow go slow on raining days . |
16-10-2014, 11:32 PM | #22 | |
Hi there !!! 123
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,895
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Quote:
bro, thank you for the reminder. yes, while topping-up, go slow and not rushing it through. full aeration with the appropriate amount of water conditioner |
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17-10-2014, 01:35 AM | #23 |
Dragon
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,141
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Yes and Thank You 1,2,3,4 , Honestly and Bingo !
Just to remind everyone , PH jump can be from 0.5 to 1.3 ish difference after WC from my experience and so far no casualty for my ex commando train fish . ( So sometimes it's not about PH only which most fish keepers like to ask or talk about . ) Water conditioner .... Ex or cheap does'nt mean good or bad . You must know how to calculate the formula/price and tank volume for WC . Seachem Prime though ex but in terms of economical is the best price water conditioner . ( Must go dig out very old thread ) Another thing cheap or branded conditioner got so called (very sensitive, dun want to name the brands or supplier here , got diluted/texture or colour difference if you take a good look . ( Maybe different batch or QA/QC quality ? |
18-10-2014, 11:34 AM | #24 |
Dragon
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 870
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Intricate & complex... there's quite a fair bit of fine details for my taking note of, great sharing
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27-10-2014, 10:59 AM | #25 |
New Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 19
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I add seachem prime, then let water stand for a few minutes with aeration to let the gasses balance off with the atmosphere.
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28-10-2014, 04:12 AM | #26 |
Dragon
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,175
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I'm pretty sure those people that has drums or fgt to age their water has less deaths with fishes pertaining to WC as compare to those (me) that use water directly from tap. On a side note, I know of people that used drums to age their water and also add anti-chlorine (Baxter/Prime/etc) just to be on the super kiasu side, which is imo a good practice too. Also IMHO, different types of fishes react differently to WC, some are definitely more sensitive (i.e. tanganyikans altos) whilst some are super hardy (i.e. local bred scalares excluding altums). After some deaths and many WC, you will know which of your fishes are more sensitive and needed extra efforts when doing WC.
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28-10-2014, 09:17 AM | #27 | |
Senior Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 5,712
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28-10-2014, 09:36 AM | #28 |
Dragon
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,519
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Adding anti chlorine is a must in the water.
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28-10-2014, 07:19 PM | #29 | |
Dragon
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,175
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Quote:
Because chlorine is used to disinfect drinking water supplies for human consumption, tap water cannot be immediately used. In the past, it was possible to "condition" the water by simply letting the water stand for a day or two, which allows the chlorine to dissipate. However, chloramine became popular in water treatment because it stays longer in the water. Additives are available to remove chlorine or chloramine and suffice to make the water ready. Thus we used anti-chlorines (Baxter/Prime/Safe, etc). |
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02-11-2014, 01:55 AM | #30 |
Dragon
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,519
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Using anti-chlorine is the faster way to get rid of chloramine and chlorine as many of us do not have the luxury of ageing water.
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