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Old 22-01-2019, 02:20 PM   #1
goldfish&koi
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Exclamation Red arowana not eating

Hi All

can all the pro of Arowana help me on this.

My red aro that is about 13inches stop eating for about nearly 3months plus but in this 3++ months the aro did eat one time half piece of prawn without shell and the other time 5 piece of super worm. That's all...

Before this issue start this red aro take about 15 to 20 piece of super worm (depending on the size) a day for at least 4months.

tank mate before this issue is with 6 discus but have a divider as aro keep disturbing them and 2 loach . divider put in place for about 2months before this happen.

now aro is with 2 loach that is about 3inches or the most 4inches in a 5x2x2ft tank. filter use is OHF. media(age 1year+), normal filter wool, black bact wool, bact house and some coral chips.

Action taken before : deworm using parzi gold, salt 0.3%, methylene blue with yellow medication that ppl use to treat new export fish, Indian Almond Leaves and Ketapang leaves.

to add on sometime the aro will jump and injury itself. sometime is right after water change and sometime is 4 to 6 days after water change.
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Old 23-01-2019, 11:53 AM   #2
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Hi bro,

Not an aro pro but in the past i had a similar experience, i did not put salt or put any medication in except for de-worming as i had rays in there. How many dosage of prazi gold have u put in?

For me when it reached 2 months plus, i had started 30% wc every 3 days, followed by a total of 2 deworming through out the cycle, and finally after about 2 weeks the bugger started eating, there was no sign of bloating or any funny movements indicating internal parasites.

1 thing which u can try is Bull frog but not really advisable if you are trying to convert your aro to frozen food.

btw, what AC are u using and how long does your WC take?
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Old 23-01-2019, 02:40 PM   #3
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im heard horror stories about feeding super worms due to their hard chitin. might be hard to digest, and perhaps impacted.

so as such, i only feed super worms as a form of treat.

my main diet is frozen prawns, herring and pellets..


also, you aro seems spooked also, so instead of dumping medications, perhaps u can perform regular wc at regular intervals and reduce lighting to calm it down..

i do mine every saturday morning, 40-50% weekly and add seachem's prime. so far so good!

also measure your parameters as well.. to find out the root cause, perhaps time to improve filtration?
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Old 24-01-2019, 11:50 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Aro77 View Post
Hi bro,

Not an aro pro but in the past i had a similar experience, i did not put salt or put any medication in except for de-worming as i had rays in there. How many dosage of prazi gold have u put in?

For me when it reached 2 months plus, i had started 30% wc every 3 days, followed by a total of 2 deworming through out the cycle, and finally after about 2 weeks the bugger started eating, there was no sign of bloating or any funny movements indicating internal parasites.

1 thing which u can try is Bull frog but not really advisable if you are trying to convert your aro to frozen food.

btw, what AC are u using and how long does your WC take?
as advise on the bottle 1 cap (5ml) for 50L, for 5x2x2ft tank with 90% full of water I dose about 60ML. I did 2 to three time.

May I ask what is AC???

water change I do weekly about 70% water change...
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Old 24-01-2019, 11:52 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by blackghost View Post
im heard horror stories about feeding super worms due to their hard chitin. might be hard to digest, and perhaps impacted.

so as such, i only feed super worms as a form of treat.

my main diet is frozen prawns, herring and pellets..


also, you aro seems spooked also, so instead of dumping medications, perhaps u can perform regular wc at regular intervals and reduce lighting to calm it down..

i do mine every saturday morning, 40-50% weekly and add seachem's prime. so far so good!

also measure your parameters as well.. to find out the root cause, perhaps time to improve filtration?
Yup maybe I will change the filter media, I do weekly water change about 70% and add seachem's safe...light I also off le.....
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Old 24-01-2019, 02:36 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by goldfish&koi View Post
as advise on the bottle 1 cap (5ml) for 50L, for 5x2x2ft tank with 90% full of water I dose about 60ML. I did 2 to three time.

May I ask what is AC???

water change I do weekly about 70% water change...
AC is anti chlorine. and noted u mentioned your using Safe.

you dose 60ML with 90% full, meaning when your water is being sucked out of the tank, it along with the anti chlorine that you have poured in?

i think the ideal way, to my knowledge is to only put the anti chlorine in after the water has been sucked out and just before you are about to top up the tap water.

back in the day i remember changing water and i forgot to put anti chlorine, my aro had started to bash around the tank, in which i then realized i had forgotten to put the AC and quickly dosed a high dose in and blasted the aeration.

5 x 2 x 2 is about 600 liters, 60ML of safe based on 5ml for 50 liters, also works out to be 600 liters, in which you change 70%, So the extra 30% is a good buffer due to our tap chlorine being rather high.

i think all you can do for now is to just continue maintaining good water parameters, change water frequently and wait it out.

A question though, what is your current PH.
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Old 24-01-2019, 04:15 PM   #7
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AC is anti chlorine. and noted u mentioned your using Safe.

you dose 60ML with 90% full, meaning when your water is being sucked out of the tank, it along with the anti chlorine that you have poured in?

i think the ideal way, to my knowledge is to only put the anti chlorine in after the water has been sucked out and just before you are about to top up the tap water.

back in the day i remember changing water and i forgot to put anti chlorine, my aro had started to bash around the tank, in which i then realized i had forgotten to put the AC and quickly dosed a high dose in and blasted the aeration.

5 x 2 x 2 is about 600 liters, 60ML of safe based on 5ml for 50 liters, also works out to be 600 liters, in which you change 70%, So the extra 30% is a good buffer due to our tap chlorine being rather high.

i think all you can do for now is to just continue maintaining good water parameters, change water frequently and wait it out.

A question though, what is your current PH.
Hmmmmm sorry I think abit of misunderstanding from my answer.

The 60ML refer to your Qns on (How many dosage of prazi gold have u put in).

aA for water change right after suck out the 70% of water I will add in safe after which then I will add in new water. The amount of safe I add in is confirm more then what is needed.(I think) how may gram I not sure as I nv weight them as they are powder form.

Ph is about 6 .5 to 5.5.... maybe way too low???? but before this the HP is all the way like that....
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Old 24-01-2019, 04:49 PM   #8
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if i not wrong safe is a concentrated powder form of Prime?

sometimes too much also not too good.

maybe u can add revamp your filter media, add buffer media as well so the pH wont drop.

you could be suffering from old tank syndrome as well when the old tank has almost run out of buffering (KH has collapsed) and the pH is low. The result of the water change is that the new water has a higher pH and the free ammonia in the tank (nitrifying bacteria struggle to work in low pH levels) which was less toxic when the pH was low is now lethal as the pH rises.

if pH keeps dropping u do the big water change, the fish have to endure constantly changing parameters. stable parameters is best regardless neutral or low ph
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Old 25-01-2019, 12:35 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by blackghost View Post
if i not wrong safe is a concentrated powder form of Prime?

sometimes too much also not too good.

maybe u can add revamp your filter media, add buffer media as well so the pH wont drop.

you could be suffering from old tank syndrome as well when the old tank has almost run out of buffering (KH has collapsed) and the pH is low. The result of the water change is that the new water has a higher pH and the free ammonia in the tank (nitrifying bacteria struggle to work in low pH levels) which was less toxic when the pH was low is now lethal as the pH rises.

if pH keeps dropping u do the big water change, the fish have to endure constantly changing parameters. stable parameters is best regardless neutral or low ph
Thank you. I will try to get money and change new tank and also new filter media.
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Old 28-01-2019, 12:25 PM   #10
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Thank you. I will try to get money and change new tank and also new filter media.
hi bro, dont really have to get a new tank, the old tank syndrome is just a name for the conditon.

some ppl wash out their media to get rid of stuck detritus.. and maybe add a few more extra media
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