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16-11-2003, 10:42 PM | #31 | |
Arofanatic
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 263
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do u need the shower water heater if your tank temp is 30 degrees? sigh, one do not need to be rich to rear GF. it is not about the equipment, even the most humble $5 sponge filter can do the job very well. instead of rushing to restock, why not wait and see if the rest will survive? in the mean time maybe you can re-evaluate what has really gone wrong (filter matured? water temp? water change? etc etc)? GF are formerly frm colder water. but they will be ok in our normal room temp. |
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17-11-2003, 12:05 AM | #32 |
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i think the water change was the cause of my fish dying.. the rest of the survivors look normal.. guess itz cuz i never put anti-chlorine.. dunno how to explain.. but i wld like the best for my gf u know wat i mean? too bad now i can't give them that.. if i cld i wld.. the temp is controlled by turning the handle more to the left or right... the place where i keep the tank is shaded and no direct sunlight, so its quite cool (the water).. thanks for feedback!
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19-11-2003, 11:08 AM | #33 |
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harlow, woke up this morning to find a lionhead floating...
juz wondering, is it common for bros to wake up (or come home) n find their gf dead? can they juz die overnight? or is it cos there is smtg wrong wif them but i didnt notice, until they die of the illness/disease? but my tank got 21 gf leh, how come the odd fish will die suddenly, but the rest SEEM to be swimming normally leh.... i speculate that death of gf can be cause either by: -disease/illness -dirty water -over feeding/under feeding -unexplainable death - etc there are probably 1001 reasons y my gf die, but juz wondering if it is common or is it juz me? any advice bros? |
19-11-2003, 12:39 PM | #34 | |
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I guess if you've spotted the sick fish earlier, you could have provided emergency aid or something, but if you didn't and you've check and comfirm your water parameters are ok, there isn't really much you can do about it. I do get caught off guard once in awhile too. |
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19-11-2003, 01:18 PM | #35 | |
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my OHF has carbon and ceramic rings... and I add bio-bacteria once a wk (recommended by lfs auntie). otherwise i know nuts abt it... i read somewhere in the forum the ideal ph is 7-8, or smtg like that, the others, i really dunno.... i see nitrate test kit, co2 test kit, ammonia test kit, ph test kit etc selling in shop, but if buy all quite ex leh.... is it necessary to buy all? |
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19-11-2003, 01:35 PM | #36 |
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in my opinion... juz the ph and ammonia tests can already... but i'm a newbie... so cannot really trust my words.. wait for all the pro's to reply...
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19-11-2003, 01:50 PM | #37 | |
Arofanatic
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 263
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you may want to search thru this forum on how to maintain water parameters. we can't help if you don't provide concrete information like ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, water change amount/frequency, pictures of fishes, abnormal behaviour etc etc. my gut feel is that your water parameters screw up. |
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19-11-2003, 02:12 PM | #38 | |
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as i mentioned in my earlier post, i do not take the armmonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph levels cos i din c the need last time... anyway now i know it is necessary, i need advice on which is muz have, and which is feeling rich then buy kind, cos buy all the kit quite ex leh... i change the water abt once every 2 or 3 mth, half tank.... then when i change, i add anti chlorine and salt lor... i clean my OHF abt once a mth, or when it becomes very dirty... will add bio-bacteria when i clean the ohf.... think all these are the basic that i shld do right? |
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19-11-2003, 02:31 PM | #39 |
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so many fish... in a 3ft tank.. the ammonia levels muz b very high.. cuz fish, big or small.. will produce ammonia(the shit and stuff).. then u change 2/3mth.. its too little.. cuz by then the ammonia level very high.. then... my guess is ur ph level abit too low.. cuz if ur ammonia haven affect ur fish yet... then.. shld b cuz ph too low.. juz start off with a ph test kit 1st la... personally like the reading to b +-7.. best is 7 la.. then u observe the remainder of ur fish.. and see if they are like.. active or not.. cuz.. thru experience, once 1 fish die.. slowly one by one will die lor.. so better do something fast.. ummm.. better wait for the other pro's to give their opinions.. like i said.. i newbie.. cannot trust wat i say fully...
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19-11-2003, 03:19 PM | #40 |
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Test Kit
I understand the problems many younger hobbits face with the high price of test kit, even a working adult like me feel the pinch but I still think it something not to be without.
The easiest way you could go is with the following combination. Buy a SeaChem Ammonia Alert. (See my 4' tank Current Inhabitants in my gallery, first picture). It's a piece of plastic that has a round sticker in the center, the sticker changes color as the amount of Ammonia changes. That will last you about one year and take ammonia reading constantly. That the most econmical one I know. I got mine at Petmart for $12 or $13, ask the sale assistants how to use it. Once you buy it and soak it in the tank, it only give proper reading after 5 to 7 days. Next I would recommend the Tetra 5 in 1 test kit, they come in strips of 20 and cost around $25 to $30 depending on where you get it. It covers Nitirite, Nitrate, gH, kH and pH. I know it's kinda expensive ($1.50 per test) so I came up with a "cheat", I cut the stripe into two identical half, so I can use it 40 times. That reduce the cost to 75 cents per test What to do! I am a cheap skate. To be honest, I also have individual test kit for all the 5 main parameters, and even some from 2 different make/brand, those are for when I need only meansurement for one specific param, consistently and it's cheaper to get individual kit for this. |
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