All about Denitrator

Originally Posted by bennkhoo

Try my very best to follow your instruction. Is a bit problem to use a small tub stuff with wool to filter it will try to solve it. As for the slow flowrate of the UVC how slow is slow ? Do not understanding zapping pathogen what does it mean very sorry hope to learn more from you.Gd night will continue to read 2morrow morning bye.

Example:

9W - 250 l/hr
18W - 500 l/hr

[bennkhoo]

Originally Posted by atom

Example:

9W - 250 l/hr
18W - 500 l/hr

Gd morning atom like to check with you is there any solution to bring down the nitrate of my main tank fast so that my denitrator and my main tank can read the same.I had aerated the place where it drip.Now thinking very hard how to fix a tub with wool for the drip.Do you come across any external pump for my UVC & the denitrator because the water evaporate very fast need to top up everyday.

Originally Posted by bennkhoo

Gd morning atom like to check with you is there any solution to bring down the nitrate of my main tank fast so that my denitrator and my main tank can read the same.I had aerated the place where it drip.Now thinking very hard how to fix a tub with wool for the drip.Do you come across any external pump for my UVC & the denitrator because the water evaporate very fast need to top up everyday.

There are 2 ways that can bring down the nitrate level very quickly but not recommended.

1. 100% WC
2. Use ion exchange resin (slower than 1)

I would not be too concern about evaporation rate. It actually helps to maintain the temperature. To lessen the burden of topping up the water, I suggest you use a tub/tank/pail and install an auto-top system.

As for powerhead that has less than 1000 l/hr and can be use externally, you can try seltz L20 from Hydor ...700 l/hr Hmax 1.35m @14W.

I've got some random thoughts...

1) The denitrator should never T-off a biofiltration due to the lack of ammonia, nitrite to strip off the oxygen?

2) Can the inlet n outlet be big pipes with valve instead of such small air hose connector? Feasible?

3) Is it better to have a multiple chamber in series or a big denitrator, considering the fact that the total volume is the same, and both will have the same recirculation pump?

Lastly... tried to find some external pumps in c328 bt nt v. successful. Any cheap ones to intro? Is it safe to say that ohf pumps are external?

Originally Posted by Lonerboi

I've got some random thoughts...

1) The denitrator should never T-off a biofiltration due to the lack of ammonia, nitrite to strip off the oxygen?

2) Can the inlet n outlet be big pipes with valve instead of such small air hose connector? Feasible?

3) Is it better to have a multiple chamber in series or a big denitrator, considering the fact that the total volume is the same, and both will have the same recirculation pump?

Lastly... tried to find some external pumps in c328 bt nt v. successful. Any cheap ones to intro? Is it safe to say that ohf pumps are external?

1. IMO, there are ammonia and nitrite in the water but too small amount for our regular test kit to detect. Secondly, the waste can be soluble and thus not broken down yet by the bio-converter.

2. Good point but I think space and cost might be the issue.

3. Rena pump (available at C328) can be use externally. Define OHF pump? Those like Big Boy pump sitting on the OHF are external only. Those submerge pump like atman 1xx n 3xx are submerge only.

[bennkhoo]

Originally Posted by atom

1. IMO, there are ammonia and nitrite in the water but too small amount for our regular test kit to detect. Secondly, the waste can be soluble and thus not broken down yet by the bio-converter.

2. Good point but I think space and cost might be the issue.

3. Rena pump (available at C328) can be use externally. Define OHF pump? Those like Big Boy pump sitting on the OHF are external only. Those submerge pump like atman 1xx n 3xx are submerge only.

As you mention the rena pump can be use externally were it be strong enough using a T-joint to control the UVC & denitrator.There is no space for the water top up compartment.Check this evening the nitrate & PH is still the same reading as yesterday.Still thinking very hard to fix a tub with wool for the outlet of the denitrator.
My bioload is 16 discus and so far 2 weeks no WC.Feeding is once in the morning & evening. Usually check the reading is 2 hrs after feeding in the evening.Trying not to do WC until the reading go up.Only need to top up water every night.

Originally Posted by bennkhoo

As you mention the rena pump can be use externally were it be strong enough using a T-joint to control the UVC & denitrator.There is no space for the water top up compartment.Check this evening the nitrate & PH is still the same reading as yesterday.Still thinking very hard to fix a tub with wool for the outlet of the denitrator.
My bioload is 16 discus and so far 2 weeks no WC.Feeding is once in the morning & evening. Usually check the reading is 2 hrs after feeding in the evening.Trying not to do WC until the reading go up.Only need to top up water every night.

If the pump is big enough, you can use it for the UVC n the denitrator. Install valve at both output to toggle the flowrate. I still prefer dedicated components. Easier to control and maintain.

As the tub, you can use a coke bottle and cut into half. Use the bottom portion and make holes at the base. Around the rim, make 2 holes opposite to each other and use strings to hang it up.

Example:

Originally Posted by atom

1. IMO, there are ammonia and nitrite in the water but too small amount for our regular test kit to detect. Secondly, the waste can be soluble and thus not broken down yet by the bio-converter.

2. Good point but I think space and cost might be the issue.

3. Rena pump (available at C328) can be use externally. Define OHF pump? Those like Big Boy pump sitting on the OHF are external only. Those submerge pump like atman 1xx n 3xx are submerge only.

Ooo... ok so T-off a cannister is ok

For point 2, i thought of that because to do a air hose connector might risk leakage, and that connector itself might clog. Also using the pipes, easier to do backwash or maintenance. With this i can put 2 T joints and 1 extra valve at a cannister to limit the input, and doing a recirculation.

Thanks atom for your inputs.

As for conditioning the output, i'm using 2 stages. water will first drop into a small container and bubbled off, before overflowing into a 2nd one with wool and CC. I simplily just lay the whole thing on my ios.

[bennkhoo]

Originally Posted by atom

If the pump is big enough, you can use it for the UVC n the denitrator. Install valve at both output to toggle the flowrate. I still prefer dedicated components. Easier to control and maintain.

As the tub, you can use a coke bottle and cut into half. Use the bottom portion and make holes at the base. Around the rim, make 2 holes opposite to each other and use strings to hang it up.

Example:

Tks for the ideas. So far the reading maintain very well .Only worry the main tank were go up.

[bennkhoo]

Originally Posted by atom

If the pump is big enough, you can use it for the UVC n the denitrator. Install valve at both output to toggle the flowrate. I still prefer dedicated components. Easier to control and maintain.

As the tub, you can use a coke bottle and cut into half. Use the bottom portion and make holes at the base. Around the rim, make 2 holes opposite to each other and use strings to hang it up.

Example:

Tks for the ideas. So far the reading maintain very well .Only worry the main tank reading were go up.