I didn't use D3 liao. Since that day you told me not to use too much different spectum, I change it to normal freshwater light tube liao. Will still get black?

all tubes have a variable amount of UV...D3 is highest

I tell u to tan from side u also never listen leh;)

Got ah. I still got 1 light at the side which I only on in the night.

are you referring to xback?

Refering to red...

Bro kage, is it ok to tan the aro by the side with just using 1 sunlight tube as compare to those more than 1 tube lighting?

Now I think I am going to change my tanning regiment. Had off the top light liao and now planning to on the side one nia. Hope is still not too late.

can i use normal light for the tanning?i not sure if my current light can do tanning leh..

bro...i saw a lot of ppl hanging the light like that....but what is the difference between hanging it outside and putting a NAN inside? of course the lighttube is the same.

can share?

Bro, if I am not wrong, by hanging the light outside, it wouldn't injure your aro or occupy the space within the tank. If you are using nan light, how many nan light you want to put to tan your aro? If hanging outside, you can hang a 4x36W light housing to tan. Another thing is servicing. If your nan light got problem, you need to take a few thing before you can change your light tube but for those hanging outside one, you can just change the tube on the spot.;)

ic thanks...that is assuming you are hanging PL lights...i saw ppl hang NAN light outside too...i just wonder what he's trying to achieve :confused:

As wat bro kage had mention in page 13, he said that all tubes have a variable amount of UV. Even though ppl hang nan light outside, it still can acheive the tanning but with longer time and exposure.

D3 was designed with a special glass which will allows a higher level of UV to pass through its tubes

Quoting from Arcadia webbie:

Ultra violet light of a particular wave band, known as UVB (290-320 nm), is required, and is produced by the Arcadia D3 Reptile lamp. UVB is not present in sufficient quantities in normal full spectrum fluorescent lamps, because the glass absorbs UVB, whereas the D3 Arcadia lamp uses a special glass designed to allow through sufficient yet safe levels of UVB and UVA.

Bro Kage, I had followed your this setting on my present tank. But I realise when I switched on the light, the aro tend to slant to the light side as it swim by the light. As I off the light, the aro swim as per normal. Why is this so? Is there any remedy to it or is there any advice to improve it? Thanks.

go read from start 1st page...

So stupid of me to skip this part. Sorry. I must be reading blindly. :p In this case, I will put a nan light over the other side to balance it.

:p

basically u will need a small night light to balance it off on the other side can liao...

its the tendency of some reds to slant their body on one side if they are exposed to extreme ends of lightings on one side of the tank

no rocket science technology need to understand this...if I try to punch from the front, u will tend to shift ur face to the back...natural instinctive move nia...

**sometimes share still got some idiots like to comments in other threads, I give the thread starter face not to bottle them**

btw ur sump whether use jap mats or not is a critical issue, important part is have enuff aeration in the trickle tower part, leave the biohome plus portion dark and shady...not necessary need aeration all out in every compartment...this is not another bakki shower

I give u face never kajiao ur thread mah:o ...I also very dry after my comm taken all ...

now will shift focus to gold and only some reds...

sometimes damn sianz also...no appreciation no kick liao...life so boring

tonight u anywhere?

bubble filter, sand filter, all about playing water...color once genes is gd no need to worry...pity thing is how many can get gd genes?

not enuff cash to buy ur type of red so have to come out with "chim chim theories"...u think other ppl will share with u all this hard work??

some throw u a smoke bomb bring u to holland ppl see them as god liao...the more smokey the better...I put clear instructions ppl buay song...

Since I am going to use another light to balance, can I use a D3 tube instead? Which mean 1 side is a D3 tube in a nan housing and the other side is the hanging light housing. This way, I can tan both side of the aro.

of cos my frenz...there is no strict rules on which light to use inside or outside

bro, now I am doing some extreme stunt. 2 months later I invite you come take pic and update.

Bro Kage, this is what you mention in the 1st page : Appetite Loss - This again has to do with the way the users acclimatise their reds to the tanning regime...if suddenly intensified lights are shone at them, weak-hearted reds will display stress and lose their appetite altogether. If let say during the 3hrs interval does it mean on and off every 3hrs? If appetite loss, does it mean to stop everthing? Or just leave it until it adapt to it then start to feed again?

I brought this old thread out for discussion.

Chromatophores basically are color pigments responsible for the colors we see on the fish. It can further be sub-divided into xanthophores(yellow), erythrophores (red) and melanophores (black/brown) ..etc

Of course there are other classes of chromatophores but this 3 would be our main area of interest.

By tanning with UV <380nm, we would expect melanophores pigments dispersion thus darkening of the fish.

Here's the spectra absorption chart for xanthophores(yellow) pigments.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...wPicture10.jpg

There is an absorption peak at the 450nm and 475nm.

Assuming that we want to bring out the max effectiveness of bringing out the yellow/gold color, we should be tanning the fish with a light source that is peaking between 450-475nm. However, if we were to tan solely with a monochromatic light with a very narrow wavelength at 450-475nm. The fish would appear dark/black as most of the light is being absorbed and not reflected.

While this would make a very good tanning light, it would not be a good viewing light as it does not reflect the yellow/gold color we want to see.

Take a look at the spectrum chart of the various bulbs produced by ushio.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...wPicture11.jpg

If we were to tan the fish using a 20000K bulb, the tanning effect would be at its maximum but viewing at its worst as there is not enough yellow ~580nm light to be reflected back into our eyes causing the fish to look black.

The ideal tanning light would be one that peaks at the max spectra absorption 450-475nm and at the same time peaks at the yellow spectrum. Which in this case would be the 14000K bulb as it gives out less UV (<380nm) thus reducing melanophores activity.

My conclusion?
I personally feel that tanning with UV while will also bring out the other color pigments(spectra absorption is not an absolute value but a range with max absorption at a certain wavelength), melanophores(black) would be at its max absorption. With black as its dominant color, it would overshadow other color pigments.

This might also explain why NAN lights(mainly red spectrum) makes the fish look so red(reflect red light back to our eyes) but does very little for the actual tanning of fish.