http://www.arofanatics.com/members/r...che=1127401022
close up pix bro fyi ...... which brand u recommend and how much it cost.
i have a marine pl lite which half blue/white can or not?

alamak...

water mark refers to the water level --> usually it will leave a line there right?

Part 9: Light coverage and tanning Zones

Light Coverage - refers to the effective area of the max effect of tanning lights...general rule of thumb is taking a distance of 4" from the light set
to gauge the effective distance, switch on ur light set and hold it at a distance of 4" above the ground...see the lighted area as shown on ur flooring thats the effective range

Tanning Zones - Areas to be covered include tummy, 4th , 5th level scales...avoid the 6th level scales (meaning top tanning)

Water Mark - refers to the water level of the tank in which the tanning subject is being held

Frequently travelled area - the average of the body width of the red and the diff between the red and the water mark

PL light set just get those 36W x 2 CR is sufficient...ur this red only lacking in the intensity of the rims...tan a little will show a more clearer definition

the rest is all there liao...gill plate probably short term improvement is lesser

max is reach the front gill part before the "A" area in short term

you mean d3 tube glass do filter 95% of uv?so which mean in order to get a more uv rays to tan the reds,we must get some light tube that the glass will filter less uv inorder to maximise the tan? :o

no actually the easier way is to remove the glass and max out the UV

wat John meant was tat the D3 arcadia was orignally meant to be used above the vivarium for reptiles for their UV tanning regime

not to be used with glass

Regarding to your this sentence, Tanning Zones - Areas to be covered include tummy, 4th , 5th level scales...avoid the 6th level scales (meaning top tanning), does it mean that the light be put at both side of the tank lenght? Only will the light housing be put at the side, then the ray will only hit the side and not the top?

if u calculate the height correctly, minimal light should hit the top scales...or unless ur top 6th level all cleared and now u using tanning to push color on 6th level scales...then I nothing to say

If not side is the better position

Is this what you mean, bro kage?

These the most complete guides for tanning. :cool:
Though may seen a little too elaborate to those who used to hanging stonger lighting directly above tank, it still offer a new way to get the light where it is needed most. Hope to see more updates from bros who hanged lighting at side of tanks.
I don't have light below water level for the emperor, yet the belly coloration development is better than level one & below scales. So got my doubt on having lighting below water level. Rather. it will be good to locate red near to window. The natural lighting outdoor, even diffuse, will have good effect for tanning need.

http://arofanatics.com/members/ken_y...te/image10.jpg

Bro Ken_yg

thanks for your kind compliments and feedback...I merely lay out on the table the details of the tanning experiment I perform for the past 6 months...with the various lights and positions...

Water like Vil have mentioned is a critical key towards the success of tanning

Timing is another...doing it at the right time, right place will make it easier

ur emperor is of very gd genes...can see the tummy area although the rims are still not too defined...its still very impressive...

top tanning have their believers hence I do not wan to discount the credibility

btw where do u hang ur light?
top?
or coupled with natural sunshine?
the jaw part seems interesting...same display as my other 3 small panda red when they were put through one series of special light treatment

Thanks for compliment. That's lot of research & hardwork u contributed here. Would have up u again, but still has to spread more around. :o
Other than tanning & water condition, I would think diets that could help red development as of equal important for red. It is believe that agents for enhancing of red/orange come more from food that red eat.
My tank is lcoated near window, thus other than tanning lighting on top of tank, it got strong natural diffuse lighting from outdoor.

So your recommendation is no other than mp?

MP contain carotenoid?, pellets may have astaxanthin, etc. These will help red development. If aro doesn't eat MP. we could feed enriched pellets to BF, dry shrimps, etc.

excellent red there! I believe the light source from window helps like a form of side tanning. More natural way than hanging a light at the front glass...

From my observation visiting some bro's house where they dun use lights to tan, just sunlight from side... top is sheltered.

I agree too. My other red located indoor don't seem to develop coloration at the belly zone. Still whitist. This one probably need side tanning.

i believe age plays an important part... like Kage says... TIMING... alot of pple are trying to shortcut the process to get a RED fish in shortest time...

hmm...I think the coverage area is correct but the placement of the lights :rolleyes:

You mean there is still something wrong with the light placement? Can you kindly advice?

What you said is true, bro. Sometime when we went to LFS, you can see most mature fish with TLC can give out very good developement. I believe for red, the older it is, the better is it.

Recent batch of VIP reds probably mean something.
If not gene factor, then red could be enhanced. Just a trade secret? :confused:

I would expect a emperor to show this color by the time it reaches 3 yrs of age ~ 4 yrs

MP shells have alot of axanthaxin...but this can be shown in the color of the red's flesh too...

I have tried feeding triple dose axathaxin direct with beefheart...the effect is not bad but not very impressive either...it just enhances the base color alittle

kage bro,

again very elaborate post but good for those who want to learn. There is one thing you left out, don''t mind me pointing it out. When to start tanning or at what size?

Wish my emperor will take to MP again. I believe coloraration has faded after I switched to enrich pellets in bf & sw when it start rejecting MP.
MP probably best diet for reds.

its still on top!!

should come from side right?

http://arofanatics.com/members/kagem...che=1127461111

as long as water condition is good, how long you tan plus power feeding, the water will not turn green. My t5 20,000k have been tanning for sometime liao, plus feed BF and MP, I don't see any problem. In fact the appetite increase like hell. Next round you come and see, all will be bui bui 1. Not forgetting to say, sai only droplets hor cos it's being scoop up

In today context, enhanced merely mean bringing out the best. As we gain more knowledge, think we will be doing enhancement to water, lighting, & feeding of course. Who know, hormone injection is next? :p

Have I mentioned liao...in terms of when to start:

Size doesnt matter --> my primary motive for tanning is to reform my lousy reds...so they are around 16 - 18" when I was playing with this experiment

I have also done it on a trio of 6" reds (but cannot use as a good gauge cos they are of gd parentage)...almost every part of the red achieve orange (meaning to say lower jaw, belly except the 6th level where the shine have not crossed)

I would say start point for tanning is when they start displaying sporadic dots or coloration along the rims

this is the best time to start

but Bro T28 red is of a bad condition before tanning, hence I recon it and tan accordingly, managed to restore back to coloration ;)

I really don't see a need to tan at 6"

tio lor...u are one other person I know is very proud of their water condition:p

I trust ur bioload is not high enuff...with the 20k light algae also difficult to come lah

Bro kage, as you had mention easiler, why should we avoid the 6th level? Even it is not cross?

6th level is the most sacred place like XB...all colors reached there the job is almost done liao...

too early u go and tan a xb from top u see how lor;)

Bro,

I dun think Kage means avoid the 6th level. It's just that the 6th level has not crossed, so better to concentrate on the body which is larger surface area. The placement of the light may jjust skim the top level thus 6th level may be missed. Only when the 6th level starts to show spotting and the red on the body is tanned to desired potential, tanning of top level is ok.

Bro Kage, right? trying to help you answer too...also testing my understanding :D

Bro, you mean if crossing is done and yet the rest of the area is not done, then next time got problem? Is this wat you mean? Still new to this area so will ask quite alot. Pardon me.:p

around there...are u sure u newbie??

u seemed to grasp my concept pretty fast leh:D

but I like!

Usually for those who are trying on tanning, they are using powerful lighting to boost up. So chow tar back will not be avoided in this case. But what about those that uses normal lighting where the intensity is not really great?

not true...mine do not have tanned back...

ok lah...but no kick leh...

those good genes one u probably know better than me:p

I dun want to lose leh...only those hard to come by one I got a chance against u:D

nope still lacking...

6 pcs is my max load on the sump I can do for a 5 x 2.5 x 2...

actually big reds are not necessary big bioloads...u kena one mama ray 18" PMS in the tank, u will know wats the worst to come;)

Bro, what I mean is that not tanning from the side but from the top. Would like to find out more of the consequence and result comparing the side tan.

tat is sure black...everything from top...u seen pond?

aros always display those dark tops...u use a pair of D3, ur top very fast become black liao