Anyway..i'm tired of exchanging another unit until I can confirm that there is no more leak. i've already left the unit at the Lfs for your experts to find out what happen. I hope you can get back to me asap.

Hi Ethanleow,
I'm also using the hydra stream 1.
Which part/section of the fix side is leaking?

Just guessing ..... Based on your filter... you should be using the 16->12mm adaptor provided. Is it leaking at this joint/connection where the adaptor meets the original outlet?

Or is there a crack somewhere?

No.. I will upload the video once I get home. This type of leak.. even the lfs owner also shake head.

[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpVL5aQCt9A[/YOUTUBE]

According to the video i uploaded above, you can see that part is somewhere that we will never turn or do anything with it. The 1st set leak so I suspect I may have accidentally turn it or something. I exchange a new set then I try it very carefully as all the pipe works are already done.. but it still leak

Hi,

From the video that you had uploaded, it is quite unclear where the leak actually takes place due to the camera angle.

As you had mentioned that you had brought it back to the LFS and had exchanged twice but with the same problem, will you be able to bring it down to our fish farm and let us have a check with on it. I understand that all the neccessary O-ring you had put in place and if the unit is really faulty, we will replace a new set to you. Thanks.

I*just came back from the LFS and was advised that the tiny o rings had to be placed when connecting the L bent and the 12mm connection. Although the leak was not from there but it sip thru into what me and the lfs guy thought its fixed but its not and leaked out from the body itself.

Good to hear that it is resolved using the o rings.
When i was setting mine up.... i took a while to figure the purpose of these 4 o-rings as the instruction didn't mention anything about them.
I simply assume it should fit at the nozzle before i screw in the L bent connection.

Perhaps QH should include this step for future instruction manuals of the Hydra Streams.
Thanks

QH, you have reply my post yet. Please do give me more advise on nitrate n nitrite.
I believe other would interest to know too.

Hi bro,

Sorry for the late reply as i do not have the luxury and provilege given by my company to sit whole day in front of my pc even though how i wish i could have this privilege. Therefore seek all the bro and sis kind understanding that i might takes a little longer in replying back your enquiries but i will try my very best to get back to you ASAP. :)

Bro Aro262, kindly do see my reply as follow:

1) it means that it is good that the NO2 is quickly change to No3.
With this fast reaction what should i do?

ANS:
This is Hydra’s working feature, to convert Nitrite to Nitrate. NO2 is more toxic than NO3.
NO3 only becomes harmful at more than 500mg/L.
NO3 will be absorbed by plants or also eventually be converted by Hydra into Nitrogen.
You do not need to do anything unless NO3 level become very high(reaching 500mg/L) and you will need to do immediate water change.
Of course you will still need to do your regular water change.

2) Ammonia will cause harm to the fish.
Will Nitrite and nitrate cause harm to the fish as well?

if the nitrite and nitrate wont cause harm to the fish, what is the prevention should i take to the nitrite and nitrate?

i was thinking with the Hydra stream, i can reduce WC.
i do not know how to differentiate on the water paramater apart from worrying from the high value obtained from the test kits.

Behaviour and appetite no much different. They still alots, as previous i fed once every day, not i feed 2 days 1 time. to cut down on bioload as my water is still not stable yet.

Please give me advise on what should i take note so i can share here.
As you mention in the FAQ, the hydra will helps to lower the nitrite and nitrate. but in my case is different.

The reading obtained is higher and it shocks me.
please explain more on this.

ANS:
Nitrite will cause harm at more than 10mg/L. Nitrate will only cause harm at more than 500mg/L. So it is better to have more Nitrite to be converted to Nitrate which this should be the way.

Relatively speaking, when you use a right Hydra size for the right tank volume and running at the recommended flow rate and considering stocking density and bio-load, then Yes, with Hydra Stream, it is possible to reduce the interval of WC compared to without Hydra, because toxic Ammonia and Nitrite are being detoxified. So the tolerance levels have increased with the use of Hydra.

It would be meaningful to compare test results before and after using Hydra. (Do not compare with the test charts shown in the user manual as the absolute readings printed are based on a case example we tested.)

If you have a test kit that reads purely NH3, you will see that it has fallen because NH3 have been detoxified to NH4+.
Nitrites are being detoxified and accelerated into Nitrate. Nitrite should fall after using Hydra, and it is common to see a higher reading in Nitrate initially, but it will stabilized at a safe level (less than 500mg/l).

For tanks that have aquatic plants, nitrates would be absorbed.
Hydra’s function is rather complex because it is managing with ever-changing water parameters in real time.

Hydra’s performance needs largely to be seen and felt base on the fishes state of health and water quality. We believe your fishes are doing well or better, despite the test readings obtained.

Hope the above information helps. :)